There is a lot of generational change happening in Champagne along with winemakers leaving cooperative work to strike out on their own and large Grand Marques adding new styles. They are all trying to bring the colorful mosaic of lieu-dit terroir influence that each Champagne village, each slope, each plot, and yes, each row lends to their wine. Beyond terroir, viticultural practices to combat climate change, innovative vinification choices, aging, and dosage (or lack thereof) choices are all seeing innovation. Overlay that with each producer’s personality, curiosity, and life experience, and the outcomes are infinite.

And, of course, there is the ever-changing influence of real vintage variation. That makes Champagne one of the most diverse and dynamic wine regions to discover.

Standing out from the tastings were amazing 2013 vintage wines, the Blanc de Blancs brimming with finesse, and the Pinot Noir blends resonant and powerful with a pure depth of gorgeously ripe fruit from the long, slow ripening of the season. Salon, Philipponnat Clos des Goisses, De Sousa Cuvée des Caudalies, and Taittinger’s Comte de Champagne to drop names. The 2013s will be drinking beautifully for a long while, so no need to rush.

Also of interest were tastings with a few producers who are cultivating Champagne’s historic grapes.

Growers like Pascal Agrapart, Nicolas Maillart, and Etienne Calsac are a few making Petit Meslier blends that are delicious and interesting in the best way. Lastly, the effort to move Champagne from aperitif to the dinner table is advancing with very elegant, vinous, and gastronomic low-to-no dosage wines by Labruyere and Nicolas Maillart, and others. The style is not for everyone, but they can be gorgeous with food.

There is so much to discover, and we are just getting started. Just remember, Champagne is as delicious on a Tuesday as it is on a special occasion.

Santé